Surfing as a dance: How one woman found grace in and out of the water

MacKinnon, Sally Anne: - Sally is a mountain-dwelling, ocean-loving woman who lives life by following the lines of volcanic basalt between the hills and the coastline. Many times a week she wakes at 3.30am to meditate, journal, drink tea and then paddle out into the ocean at dawn. Sally writes every day, taking seriously Anne Lamott's advice that getting published won't heal your life but writing every day will. When she writes poetry, her heart finds its voice.